Is the Golden Circle Worth Doing in Winter?
We drove Iceland’s most popular route in February — on icy roads, in four hours of daylight, with wind that knocked the car door back. Here’s whether it was actually worth it.
The Golden Circle is Iceland’s most popular day trip — Þingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss, and back to Reykjavik in about 300 km. In summer, coaches run bumper-to-bumper. In winter, most travel blogs either ignore it entirely or add a vague “it’s doable.” We drove it in February, as a couple used to Arctic conditions from our home in Rovaniemi, and we want to give you the honest version.
Short answer: yes, the Golden Circle is worth doing in winter. But not for the same reasons as summer, and not without knowing what you’re actually signing up for.
The Golden Circle in winter is absolutely worth it — fewer crowds, snow-draped landscapes, and a chance to combine the drive with a northern lights hunt the same evening. Budget 6–8 hours instead of the summer’s 5, expect icy roads on Route 36 and 35, and start by 9:30 am to catch all three stops in daylight. A rental car with studded tires is non-negotiable.
What makes the Golden Circle different in winter
The light — and the lack of it
In December and January, Reykjavik gets roughly 4–5 hours of usable daylight. By February you’re up to about 7–8 hours, and by March you’re pushing 10+. That daylight window dictates everything: when you leave, which stop you do first, and whether you’re photographing Gullfoss under sunlight or in blue twilight.
The flip side is that the low winter sun creates light that summer visitors never see. The golden hour effectively lasts all day. Gullfoss at midday in January looks like a movie set — amber light hitting the frozen spray, steam rising into cold air. We’ve been to a lot of waterfalls across Scandinavia, and Gullfoss in winter light was in a different category.
Crowds — or the absence of them
Summer Golden Circle can feel like a theme park queue. In February, we parked at Þingvellir with two other cars. The viewing platform at Gullfoss had maybe twelve people on it. Strokkur erupted for an audience of about twenty. It felt like we were seeing these places the way they’re supposed to be seen.
What changes at each stop
- Þingvellir: the Almannagjá gorge gets iced-over walkways. The tectonic plates look more dramatic with snow filling the rift. Silfra snorkeling still runs year-round (drysuits), and the water is actually clearer in winter.
- Geysir/Strokkur: Strokkur erupts every 5–10 minutes regardless of season. The surrounding hot spring area steams more dramatically in cold air — it looks otherworldly.
- Gullfoss: partially frozen. The lower tier often freezes into ice sculptures while the upper cascade still thunders. The spray freezes on the railings, the path, and your face. It’s more impressive than summer, in our opinion.
How to drive the Golden Circle in winter (the 6–8 hour plan)
In summer, this loop takes about 5 hours with stops. In winter, add time for slower driving, shorter daylight, and the fact that you will stand at Gullfoss longer than you planned because it’s mesmerizing.
Step 1 — Leave Reykjavik by 9:00–9:30 am
Sunrise in January is around 11:15 am; in February, around 9:45 am; in March, around 8:15 am. You want to be on Route 36 heading to Þingvellir as light arrives. Don’t wait for “full daylight” — the blue pre-dawn hour is part of the experience.
Step 2 — Þingvellir first (1–1.5 hours)
Park at the P1 lot near the visitor center. Walk the Almannagjá gorge path down to Öxarárfoss. In winter, the path can be icy but it’s usually maintained. Budget about an hour. If you’ve booked a Silfra snorkel, that adds 2–3 hours and you should start even earlier.
Step 3 — Geysir area (45 min–1 hour)
Drive Route 36 east to Route 365 and then onto Route 37. About 50 minutes from Þingvellir. Watch Strokkur erupt two or three times, walk the geothermal area. The café here is a solid lunch stop — warm soup and coffee before heading to Gullfoss.
Step 4 — Gullfoss (1–1.5 hours)
Ten minutes from Geysir. The upper viewpoint is usually accessible in winter; the lower path is sometimes closed due to ice. Take your time. This is the highlight and the part we remember most vividly.
Step 5 — Return via Route 35 to Reykjavik (1.5–2 hours)
Head back on Route 35 south to Route 1. This section can have the worst wind and ice. Drive slowly, keep headlights on, and check road.is before you set out. If conditions are bad, you can always reverse the loop and come back through Þingvellir instead.
What to bring and wear on the Golden Circle in winter
We live in Rovaniemi — we deal with −30 °C regularly. Iceland is rarely that cold, but the wind makes it feel worse than Lapland. Here’s the quick-reference list we’d hand a friend before they left Reykjavik.
The non-negotiable items
- Windproof outer layer: a hardshell jacket and pants. Iceland’s wind goes through fleece like it’s not there.
- Wool base layer: merino wool top and bottom. Not cotton. Ever.
- Insulated waterproof boots: with proper tread. Gullfoss viewing platforms get spray-iced.
- Wool hat, neck gaiter, and windproof gloves: double-layered gloves if you want to use a camera.
- Hand warmers: the disposable kind. Stuff two in your gloves at Gullfoss.
- Microspikes/crampons: the strap-on kind. Ice is everywhere — paths, parking lots, boardwalks.
- Sunglasses: snow glare is real, and the low sun angle hits you right in the eyes when driving.
- Thermos with hot drink: fill it at your hotel before you leave. You’ll thank yourself at Þingvellir.
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Practical warnings and road safety
This is the part most Golden Circle guides gloss over. Winter driving in Iceland is not the same as driving in winter elsewhere. We’re experienced winter drivers — Lapland roads are no joke — and Iceland still made us pay attention.
- Check road.is before you leave: this is Iceland’s official road condition site. Green means passable, yellow means difficult, red means closed. Route 36 and 35 occasionally go yellow in storms.
- Rent a car with studded tires: not all-seasons, not just winter tires — studs. Every major rental agency offers them November–April. This is not optional.
- Watch for single-lane bridges: there are a few on the route. In winter, with ice, they’re the trickiest moments.
- Black ice on Route 35: the stretch between Gullfoss and the Route 1 junction is exposed highland. Wind-polished ice is common. Drop your speed to 50–60 km/h even if the limit says 90.
- Fuel up in Selfoss or Reykjavik: there’s a gas station near Geysir, but don’t count on it in bad weather. Leave with a full tank.
- Don’t stop on the road for photos: pull fully off onto gravel. Drivers behind you can’t brake on ice.
Self-drive vs guided tour in winter
Both are valid. Here’s how we’d break it down based on what actually matters in winter conditions.
- Self-drive is better if: you’re comfortable on ice, you want your own schedule, you’re combining the Golden Circle with a northern lights drive that same evening (we did this — left Reykjavik at 9 am, returned at 4 pm, went back out at 9 pm for aurora hunting near Þingvellir).
- A guided tour is better if: you’ve never driven on ice, you’re visiting for under 3 days, or you want someone else to deal with the wind and road conditions. Most tours run around €80–100 per person and include hotel pickup.
- The hidden advantage of self-drive: you can reverse the route or skip a stop if weather hits one area harder than another. Tour buses stick to the schedule regardless.
- The hidden advantage of a tour: guides know the forecast and sometimes reroute to catch better light. Some also stop at Kerið crater or Friðheimar tomato farm, which adds variety.
What we got wrong — and what we’d repeat
- We started too late. Left Reykjavik at 10:30 am in February and hit Gullfoss in fading blue light. Should have been on the road by 9:00. Lesson learned.
- We underestimated Gullfoss wind. We live in Lapland. We thought we knew cold. Gullfoss spray + Icelandic wind is a different beast. Our camera lens fogged within seconds. Bring lens wipes and a ziplock bag for your phone.
- We didn’t bring microspikes. The Þingvellir boardwalk was a skating rink. We shuffled like penguins. Microspikes would have taken thirty seconds to put on and saved a lot of dignity.
- We skipped Kerið crater. It’s a small detour on the way back, and in winter the frozen turquoise lake inside the crater is apparently stunning. Next time.
- What we’d absolutely repeat: driving the Golden Circle first, then going out for northern lights that same night. The combination of daytime sightseeing and nighttime aurora made it one of the best single days of our Iceland trip.
- What we’d repeat: bringing a thermos. Hot coffee at the Þingvellir viewpoint while watching the sunrise creep over the tectonic plates — that’s a core memory.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Golden Circle open in winter?
Yes. Routes 36, 35, and 37 are maintained year-round and rarely fully closed. Check road.is on the morning of your trip. Individual viewing platforms may close temporarily due to ice, but the drive itself stays open.
Do I need a 4×4 for the Golden Circle in winter?
Not strictly — the roads are paved and maintained. But a 4WD with studded tires gives you a significant safety margin, especially on Route 35 between Gullfoss and Route 1. We’d choose 4WD every time in winter.
How long does the Golden Circle take in winter?
Plan 6–8 hours total: about 3 hours of driving and 3–4 hours at the three stops. In summer it’s more like 5 hours. The extra time accounts for slower road speeds and the fact that you’ll want to linger at Gullfoss.
Can I see the northern lights on the Golden Circle?
Absolutely. Þingvellir is one of the best aurora spots near Reykjavik — dark skies, open horizon, and only 45 minutes from the city. We drove back out after dinner and saw a strong display. Combine the day trip with an evening aurora hunt.
What’s the best month for the Golden Circle in winter?
February or early March. You get 7–10 hours of daylight, roads are usually in good condition, and you still have long enough nights for northern lights. December and January work too but daylight is very limited.
Is Gullfoss frozen in winter?
Partially. The lower tier often freezes into ice formations while the upper cascade keeps flowing. It depends on the winter — some years more ice, some years less. Either way, winter Gullfoss is dramatic and arguably more photogenic than summer.
A final word from Rovaniemi
We get asked this question a lot — usually by people who are already planning an Iceland trip and wondering if winter is a mistake. It’s not. The Golden Circle in winter is quieter, more dramatic, and honestly more memorable than the summer version we’ve seen in every Instagram reel.
Yes, the roads demand attention. Yes, you’ll be cold at Gullfoss. Yes, you need to plan around daylight. But we live in Finnish Lapland — we’ve built our entire life around the idea that winter isn’t something to avoid. It’s something to lean into. Iceland’s Golden Circle is one of those places that rewards that mindset.
And if you time it right, you’ll end the day watching the northern lights dance over the same tectonic rift you walked that morning. That’s not a bad day by any measure.
Joona & Alla
A Finnish-Ukrainian couple living in Rovaniemi, Finland. Joona is a marketing professional in Lapland tourism; Alla is an AI Engineer. Together we’ve visited 25 countries and share honest, locally-grounded travel writing from our home in the Arctic.
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