Estonia,

Estonia sits just a ferry ride from Helsinki, practically our backyard from Rovaniemi. That gives us a particular angle on Estonia — close enough to visit often, far enough to appreciate how different it feels from the Nordic countries.

Summer (June–August) is the easy answer: long daylight, festivals in every city park, and the islands at their most beautiful. Midsummer weekend (late June) is magical but plan transport and lodging far ahead — Estonia slows down and heads to summer cottages.

Winter has its own case. December–February in Tallinn means quiet cobblestones, glögi at Christmas markets, and winter atmosphere. Shoulder months (May, September) are our favourite for city breaks: fewer crowds, softer light, prices drop.

Tallinn. The old town is the postcard, but the city reveals itself in Kalamaja and Telliskivi. Walk the limestone streets, explore the creative quarter, then eat dinner in Kalamaja where the neighbourhood comes alive after dark.

The archipelago. Thhe city is compact and walkable end-to-end. Even a day trip to Paldiski or the Pakri peninsula changes your definition of “city break.”

Lahemaa National Park. Estonia's finest national park, an hour east of Tallinn. Ancient manor houses, bog trails on duckboards, and a pristine Baltic coastline. We rent a car and spend a full day here.

Tartu. Estonia's university city, two hours south. Bookshops, craft beer, riverside cafes, and the kind of energy that Stockholm wishes it had. If Tallinn feels too touristed in July, Tartu is where Estonia thinks.

For a first trip: four nights in Tallinn is the sweet spot. Two in the old town, one day trip to Lahemaa, one evening in Kalamaja. Add Tartu for a second trip.

Tallinn neighbourhoods: Kalamaja for character, Rotermann for design hotels, Vanalinn (old town) if you want to splurge. Skip hotels on the ring roads — the subway is excellent but you want to be able to walk home from dinner.

Trains are the easy answer. Lux Express and Hansabuss run coaches between Tallinn, Tartu, and Riga. The ferry to Helsinki takes two hours and to Stockholm overnight.

Inside cities: Tallinn is walkable and public transport is free for residents. Don't rent a car in the city, but do rent one for Lahemaa, Saaremaa, or anywhere beyond the capitallän.

Skip the stereotype about Estonian food being heavy — the farm-to-table movement here is genuine. Tallinn has a quietly excellent restaurant scene that actually feels fun.

What we always eat: proper black bread with butter and sprats, mulgipuder (barley-potato mash), kama for dessert, and soljanka when it’s cold. Craft beer is excellent — Põhjala brewery in Tallinn is world-class. Most restaurants outside the capital close earlier than you expect.

Estonia rewards the curious traveller. It's small, walkable, and the old town rewards you in a single day — but linger and you find the layers: Soviet-era Kalamaja, forest bogs, and islands most travellers miss. Start with Tallinn, add a ferry to Helsinki or a bus to Riga, come back for the islands when summer calls.

Tallinn for medieval atmosphere and smaller scale; Helsinki for modern design, saunas, and restaurants. They're a two-hour ferry apart — we pair them when we can.

Yes, with caveats. One night is plenty — you sleep in a cold room and the novelty is the point. Pair it with two nights in a warm cabin nearby. Book 6+ months ahead for December–February.