Faroe Islands,

Finns and Swedes tease each other like siblings; the border is a bridge and the language on our cereal boxes. That gives us a particular angle on Faroe Islands — close enough to know the quirks, far enough to still be charmed by them.

Summer (June–August) is the easy answer: long daylight, puffins on the cliffs, and the archipelago at its softest. Ólavsøka (late July) is magical but plan transport and lodging far ahead — the whole country converges on Tórshavn.

Winter has its own case. October–March means storms, moody light and empty roads — dramatic, but plan for cancelled ferries and helicopter flights. Shoulder months (May, September) are our favourite: fewer visitors, softer light, prices drop.

Tórshavn. The turf-roofed old town on Tinganes is the postcard, but the city reveals itself on the harbour: coffee by the boats, a walk up to the fortress at Skansin, then dinner in one of the small restaurants around Vágsbotnur where the whole capital fits in a glance.

The islands. Eighteen islands stitched together by sub-sea tunnels, bridges and ferries. Even a day trip to Vágar for Múlafossur and Sørvágsvatn, the lake that hangs above the ocean, changes your definition of “day trip.”

Saksun and Gjógv. We drive there. Saksun is a tidal lagoon ringed by mountains with a handful of turf houses; Gjógv is a village built around a sea-filled gorge. Both are the Faroes at their most cinematic, and both are quiet if you arrive early.

Klaksvík & the northern islands. Seafood, a quieter pace, and the sea-cliff drives of Viðoy and Kunoy. If Tórshavn feels too polished, Klaksvík is where the Faroes breathe.

For a first trip: five nights split between Tórshavn (3) and a village base on Vágar or Eysturoy (2). For a winter trip: stay in Tórshavn and drive out on the good-weather days.

Tórshavn neighbourhoods: the old town for character, the harbour for convenience, a guesthouse in Hoyvík if you want quiet. Skip hotels out by the airport — you want to be able to walk home from dinner.

A rental car is the easy answer. The islands are linked by sub-sea tunnels (tolls charged automatically to the car) and short ferries; Tórshavn to Klaksvík is under an hour, and the airport on Vágar is 45 minutes from the capital.

Inside Tórshavn the red city buses are free. Between islands, the Strandfaraskip ferries and the subsidised helicopter routes are a proper experience — book the helicopter early. Don’t skip the car unless you are staying in the capital only.

Skip the stereotype about Faroese food being bland — the new Nordic wave reached here too. Tórshavn has had Michelin-level cooking for years and a surprising number of good small kitchens.

What we always eat: fresh fish and langoustine, lamb in every form, ræst (fermented) meat if you dare, rhubarb desserts, and the cinnamon buns at the harbour bakeries. Alcohol is sold only in Rúsdrekkasøla shops with short hours — stock up on weekdays.

Faroe Islands rewards slow travel. Unlike Finland, where you earn the wild by driving north, Faroe Islands hands you beauty around every bend in the road. It's the country we send friends to when they want Nordic without the steep learning curve. Start with Tórshavn, add an island, come back for the North Atlantic when winter calls.

Both, honestly, but if pushed: Tórshavn if you want water, forests, and a slower rhythm; Copenhagen if you want design, cycling, and restaurants. Tórshavn is less touristed, which we like.

Yes, unless you only stay in Tórshavn. Distances are short but the best places — Saksun, Gjógv, Múlafossur, the Viðoy cliffs — are spread across islands with limited buses. Book the car with the flight; the small rental fleet sells out in summer.