Ukraine,

Ukraine sits large on the map and larger in memory. We visited before the full-scale war — Kyiv’s broad avenues, Poltava’s quiet streets, kitchens opening onto courtyards. We write about what we saw, with care for what has changed.

Late spring through early autumn (May–September) is the sweet spot: chestnut blossoms in Kyiv, long evenings in outdoor cafes, warm markets full of produce. Summer days are hot on the southern steppe; pack for both cool mornings and 30°C afternoons.

Winter is cold, bright, and quiet — snow softens every city and heated metro stations are part of the texture. Shoulder months (late April, early October) are our favourites: soft light, fewer crowds, food still good.

Kyiv. The Golden Gates, Saint Sophia’s bell towers, chestnut-lined Khreshchatyk — and the everyday city, bakeries, tram rides, parks along the Dnipro. We stayed in Podil and found a rhythm: coffee, walk, lunch, walk, dinner.

Poltava.  A quieter, tree-lined city that carries the country’s soul in a low-key way. Deeply rooted in history, it’s home to a fascinating museum dedicated to the war with Sweden, and a peaceful riverside park perfect for unwinding after Kyiv. And the highlight: the tastiest local specialty — Poltavian galushki.

Lviv. Galician architecture, coffee house culture, cobbled Rynok Square. We haven’t been back; friends still write from there.

The Carpathians. Hoverla, wooden churches, highland villages. Hiking in summer, skiing in winter — a different Ukraine from the cities, and one many visitors miss.

For a first trip: five to seven nights in Kyiv with one or two day trips (Chernihiv, Kaniv, or a Dnipro cruise). Add Poltava or Odesa if you have ten days.

Kyiv neighbourhoods: Podil for cafes and a younger feel, Pechersk for monuments and quiet streets, the city centre near Maidan for convenience. We skipped ring-road hotels — walking home from dinner is half the point.

Trains are the easy answer here too. Ukrzaliznytsia connects Kyiv to Lviv, Odesa, Kharkiv, and smaller towns — clean, cheap, on time. Night trains are an institution, with proper beds and tea in glass holders.

Inside cities: Kyiv has a deep, beautiful metro (some of the deepest stations in the world). Marshrutkas and trams fill the gaps. A car is usually more trouble than it’s worth in the big cities.

Ukrainian food is one of Europe’s great cuisines and tragically underrated. The black-earth country grows everything; every babushka has a better recipe than the last restaurant.

What we always eat: borscht (proper, with pampushky and garlic), varenyky (dumplings stuffed with potato, cherry, or curd), deruny (potato pancakes), salo (cured pork fat on dark bread), and honey cake. Horilka is the national spirit; kvass is the national soft drink; kompot is what kids drink and what we pour cold in summer.

Ukraine is a country to travel slowly and listen to. The cities are generous, the food is extraordinary, and every conversation has a history attached. When conditions allow, go — stay in family-run places, buy from local markets, and let Kyiv, Poltava, or Lviv show you what they mean. Until then, follow Ukrainian writers and photographers; their stories are the best guide.

Either works; we’d usually start with Kyiv. It’s the political and cultural heart, easy to fly into (when flights are running), and sets context for everything else. Lviv is beautiful but smaller; save it for a second or third visit.

This question has a different answer for every person and every month. Since February 2022 tourism has changed completely; parts of the country are far from the front and parts are not. Follow your government’s advisories, the situation is fluid, and plan around the realities of air raid alerts and curfews. Supporting Ukrainian businesses from abroad is a real way to help in the meantime.