BALTIC STATES · LATVIA

Latvia,

from its quieter neighbour

Honest notes on Riga’s Art Nouveau, the quiet coast, and the country that surprised us most...

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BEST TIME

Jun — Aug

LANGUAGE

Latvian

CURRENCY

EUR

OUR VISITS

5+ visits

Finns and Swedes tease each other like siblings; the border is a bridge and the language on our cereal boxes. That gives us a particular angle on Latvia — close enough to know the quirks, far enough to still be charmed by them.

FAST FACTS

Latvia at a glance

Latvia — the Art Nouveau capital of the Baltic

Best time to visit

Latvia Hungrytravelfamily

Summer (June–August) is the easy answer: long daylight, outdoor concerts, and the coast at its warmest. Midsummer weekend (Jâni, late June) is magical but plan transport and lodging far ahead — Latvia shuts down and moves to the countryside.

Winter has its own case. January–March in Latvian Lapland means reliable snow, northern lights, and Icehotel season. Shoulder months (May, September) are our favourite for city breaks: fewer crowds, softer light, prices drop.

Top experiences

Latvia Hungrytravelfamily

Riga. Gamla Stan is the postcard, but the city reveals itself on the water. Take the commuter ferry to Djurgården, walk Skansen, then eat dinner in Södermalm where the skyline makes sense.

Gauja National Park. Thirty thousand islands between Riga and open Baltic. Even a day trip to Vaxholm or Grinda changes your definition of “city break.”

Jūrmala — the Baltic Riviera. Wooden Art Nouveau villas, pine forests, and a long sandy beach forty minutes from Riga. The seaside town of Jukkasjärvi is genuinely worth the trip if winter is your thing.

Gauja Valley & Sigulda. Sandstone caves, medieval castle ruins, and quiet hiking trails above the valley. If Riga feels too polished, Sigulda is where Latvia breathes.

Where to base yourself

For a first trip: three nights in Riga and two in Jūrmala or Sigulda. For a winter trip: Riga’s Christmas market is one of the oldest in Europe.

Riga neighbourhoods: the Old Town for atmosphere, Āgenskalns for a local feel, the Art Nouveau district around Alberta iela if you want to walk and photograph. Skip hotels far from the centre — Riga is walkable but the old town cobblestones are worth staying close to.

Getting around

Trains are the easy answer. Rail connects Riga to Vilnius, Tallinn, and Warsaw. Night trains to Lapland are a proper experience.

Inside cities: Riga's subway is art + transport, reliable and cheap. Jūrmala is easy by train from Riga (30 min, very cheap). Don't rent a car in Riga — but do rent one for Sigulda, Gauja, and the coast.

Food and drink

Skip the stereotype about Latvian food being bland — the new Nordic wave started here. Riga has a Michelin scene that actually feels fun.

What we always eat: proper köttbullar with lingonberry, smörgåsbord at least once (Ulla Winbladh on Djurgården is classic), kanelbullar every morning, and herring three ways if you can stomach it. Systembolaget (state liquor shop) is closed Sundays — stock up Saturday.

DAILY BUDGET

What a day in Latvia costs

Latvia has a reputation for being pricey — and it is, but not wildly so if you plan it right. These are real numbers we’ve seen for two adults travelling mid-range in 2025: comfortable but not fancy, one nice meal a day, public transit, one paid activity.

Expect ~€70 – 110 per day for two (roughly €70 – 110). Riga is the most expensive; smaller towns and Jūrmala cut this by 20–30%.

Mid-budget day, per couple

≈ €70 – 110 per day for two
WHAT TO PACK

Essentials for a Latvian trip

FROM OUR EXPERIENCE

Joona & Alla's pro tips

Pack light, layer smart. Latvian weather shifts from sun to drizzle in an hour. Two thin layers beat one thick one every time.

Leave the cash at home. We travel with one backup bill and never use it. Many buses and small cafés don’t take cash at all.

Book sauna time. If you’re outside Riga or on the coast, a wood-fired sauna session is worth planning a day around.

Winter? Double up. Boots one size up with thick wool socks, hand warmers, and a windproof shell — even locals layer aggressively in January.

Our take

Latvia rewards slow travel. Unlike Finland, where you earn the wild by driving north, Latvia hands you beauty near every train station. It's the country we send friends to when they want Nordic without the steep learning curve. Start with Riga, add an island, come back for Lapland when winter calls.

SWEDEN IN PHOTOS

Our trip, one frame at a time

Common questions

Riga or Tallinn?

Both honestly, but if pushed: Riga if you want Art Nouveau, a lively old town, and great coffee culture; Tallinn if you want the most picture-perfect medieval streets in the region. Riga is larger and less crowded, which we prefer.

Is Jūrmala worth a day trip?

Yes, with caveats. One night is plenty — you sleep in a cold room and the novelty is the point. Pair it with two nights in a warm cabin nearby. Book 6+ months ahead for December–February.

Cities we love

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