Iceland,

Iceland is the one destination that genuinely surprised us after years of reading about it. The photos flatten it — the real thing is noisy with waterfalls, windy beyond reason, and geologically alive in a way that makes every other landscape feel a little static. We drove the Ring Road in ten days and kept stopping just to stand in the wind.

Summer (June–August) is the easy answer: long daylight, access to the highlands, and roads fully open. Midsummer is beautiful but book accommodation months ahead.

September and October bring the first aurora, fewer tourists, and still-mild temperatures. December to March means serious winter: highland roads close, but aurora viewing improves and the ice caves open. We went in early summer and would love to return in October.

Reykjavík. Gamla Stan is the postcard, but the city reveals itself on the water. Take the commuter ferry to Reykjavík waterfront, walk Skansen, then eat dinner in the 101 district where the skyline makes sense.

The Ring Road circuit. Wild coastlines, lava fields, and cascading waterfalls frame the Ring Road. Even a day trip to Reykjanes or Snæfellsnes changes your definition of “city break.”

Akureyri and the north. We drive there. Akureyri is the base for whale watching and Lake Mývatn, and the geothermal wonders of Mývatn is genuinely worth the trip if winter is your thing.

Akureyri & the west coast. Seafood, a quieter pace, and island-hopping on the north coastän coast. If The south coast is the most dramatic stretch — even a few days here earns the trip.

For a first trip: five nights split between Reykjavík (3) and the Ring Road circuit (2). For a winter trip: stay in a dark-sky location outside Reykjavík — Thingvellir area or the north.

Reykjavík neighbourhoods: the 101 district for character, Norrmalm for convenience, Östermalm if you want to splurge. Skip hotels on the ring roads — the subway is excellent but you want to be able to walk home from dinner.

A rental car is essential — Iceland has no train network. Book well ahead in summer; 4WDs sell out fast. A standard 2WD handles Route 1.

Inside Reykjavík: the city bus (Strætó) is reliable and cheap. Akureyri has local buses. Outside cities, a car is non-negotiable for the Ring Road or the Westfjords.

Iceland is expensive for food — budget for it. Supermarkets (Krónan, Bónus) are your friend on a long road trip.

What we always order: lamb soup (kjötsúpa) at any petrol station diner, skyr with fresh berries, fresh-baked rye bread from Laugarvatn’s geothermal bakery, and the Icelandic hot dog (pylsa) with remoulade — genuinely excellent and about 500 ISK. Seafood is outstanding wherever the menu keeps it simple.

Iceland is over-photographed and somehow still under-experienced by most visitors who race it in five days. The trick is to slow down — one fewer waterfall, one longer coffee stop. The Ring Road rewards the traveller who isn’t chasing the schedule. We left promising ourselves one more trip, this time in October.

Both, honestly, but if pushed: Reykjavík if you want water, forests, and a slower rhythm; Copenhagen if you want design, cycling, and restaurants. Reykjavík is less touristed, which we like.

Yes, with caveats. One night is plenty — you sleep in a cold room and the novelty is the point. Pair it with two nights in a warm cabin nearby. Book 6+ months ahead for December–February.