We arrived in Seyðisfjörður on the Smyril Line ferry from the Faroe Islands just after dawn. The ship had been threading through the fjord for forty minutes, and by the time we walked down the gangway, we were already deciding whether we needed to move on quickly or whether this small east-Iceland town was worth staying for. We stayed two nights. We should have stayed four.
Seyðisfjörður is the Smyril Line’s Icelandic port — it’s where the ferry from the Faroe Islands and Denmark arrives and departs — but it is so much more than a transit stop. Tucked inside a narrow fjord ringed by waterfalls, it holds Iceland’s most intact collection of colourful wooden houses, an arts and music community that punches far above its 700-person population, and trails that climb out of the village into complete wilderness within twenty minutes. This guide is for anyone arriving by ferry, arriving by road, or simply wondering what the fuss is about.
Seyðisfjörður is a small town of roughly 700 people on Iceland’s east coast, set inside a deep fjord accessible by a dramatic mountain road (Route 93) or by the Smyril Line ferry from the Faroe Islands and Denmark. It is home to Iceland’s most photogenic collection of rainbow-painted wooden houses, a thriving arts scene, and hiking trails that lead to waterfalls and mountain lakes. Plan at least one full night — ideally two — rather than treating it as a ferry checkpoint.
Where Seyðisfjörður actually is — and why it matters
Seyðisfjörður sits on Iceland’s east coast, roughly 700 km by road from Reykjavik. That distance alone explains why so few travellers make it here: it’s a serious detour from the Golden Circle and south-coast waterfall loop that fills most Iceland itineraries. But for Ring Road drivers heading east, or for anyone arriving on the Smyril Line ferry, it’s not a detour at all — it’s simply where you are.
The geography that shapes everything
- The fjord itself: Seyðisfjörður is about 17 km long and rarely more than 2 km wide. Mountains rise steeply on both sides, topping out above 1,000 metres. Snow lingers on the peaks well into June.
- Route 93: The only road into town crosses the Fjarðarheiði mountain pass, which can close in winter and even in early spring. Driving it in clear weather — especially from the east on the Egilsstaðir side — delivers one of Iceland’s most theatrical arrival sequences: you summit in mist, then the fjord appears below you all at once.
- Egilsstaðir: The nearest town (27 km, about 30 minutes) has the region’s airport, a supermarket, and most practical services. Seyðisfjörður deliberately has very few of those — which is part of its character.
- The ferry connection: Smyril Line’s Norröna calls at Seyðisfjörður once a week in each direction. It is the only passenger and vehicle ferry connecting Iceland to mainland Europe, making this small port a genuine gateway rather than just a scenic stop.
How to get to Seyðisfjörður: ferry or road
There are exactly two ways in: over the mountain on Route 93, or across the North Atlantic on the Smyril Line. Both are genuinely dramatic.
Option 1 — The Smyril Line ferry
The Norröna sails from Hirtshals (Denmark) via Tórshavn (Faroe Islands) to Seyðisfjörður. The Iceland leg alone — Faroe Islands to Seyðisfjörður — takes about 14–15 hours overnight. You arrive in the early morning, sailing through the fjord as the valley wakes up. It’s a memorable way to enter Iceland, and if you’re bringing a car it’s the only realistic option short of flying to Reykjavik and driving six hours east.
- Frequency: Once per week in each direction (schedule varies slightly by season — check Smyril Line’s website for exact 2026 dates).
- Booking: Book car berths early; foot-passenger cabins are easier to find.
- Tip: The ferry arrives early enough that you can start exploring by 8 or 9 am, making a full day possible even on arrival day.
Option 2 — Road from the Ring Road (Route 1)
Turn off Ring Road 1 onto Route 93 just east of Egilsstaðir. The road climbs immediately and aggressively. In summer it’s paved and perfectly manageable in a regular car. In winter or shoulder season, check road.is before you go — the pass closes regularly. The descent into town is steep enough that some nervous drivers grip the wheel harder than usual, but there’s nothing technically difficult. From the Ring Road junction to Seyðisfjörður town centre: about 27 km and 30 minutes.
What to do in Seyðisfjörður — the essential list
Seyðisfjörður rewards slow walking more than ticked sightseeing. Here are the things worth your time.
Quick reference — what to actually do
- Walk the Rainbow Street (Rainbowstreet): Colored stepping-stone path leading to the Blue Church — the town’s iconic shot, painted in rainbow stripes in solidarity with LGBTQ+ rights.
- Blue Church (Bláa kirkjan): Iceland’s best-preserved early 20th-century wooden church, now used as a concert venue in summer. Free to look at from outside; concerts sell out.
- LungA Art Festival: Held every July, it transforms the town into an open-air arts event. Locals and international artists share studios, performances, and workshops across the village.
- Hiking to Vestdalsfossar waterfall: 30–45 min walk from town up the eastern valley; the trail is well-marked and rewards you with a multi-tier cascade into a mossy gorge.
- Hiking to Seyðisfjörður Lake (Selárdalur): A longer (3–4 hr return) trail through birch scrub and over a high shoulder with panoramic fjord views.
- Skaftfell Center for Visual Art: Small contemporary art centre with rotating exhibitions; the café inside is one of the better places to eat in town.
- Swimming pool (Sundlaug): Geothermally heated outdoor pool — a local ritual. Open most mornings. Entry is a few hundred ISK.
- Simply sitting at the harbour: Watch the mountains, watch the birds, drink from a flask. Underrated.
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Where to eat and sleep in Seyðisfjörður
Seyðisfjörður has a small but quality food scene. Options are limited by size — which is precisely what keeps the town from feeling overrun.
Where we ate
- Skaftfell Bistro: The art centre’s café is also the town’s most reliable lunch spot. Soups, open sandwiches, and good coffee. Closes early; arrive by 15:00.
- Við Lónið: The main restaurant in town, located at Hotel Aldan. Fish of the day is usually genuinely fresh — east Iceland’s harbours still supply direct. Evenings only; book ahead in summer.
- Hótel Aldan (restaurant annex): The same hotel runs a simpler café in a separate house down the street. Good for breakfast or a late afternoon bite.
- The petrol station / small kiosk: Open hours and stock vary. Don’t rely on it for a full meal but useful for snacks on arrival early morning.
- Self-catering: Bring supplies from Egilsstaðir’s Netto supermarket before driving down. Cooking in a guesthouse kitchen is very common here.
Where to stay
- Hótel Aldan: A collection of four lovingly restored historical wooden buildings. The nicest option in town; book well in advance for July.
- Hafaldan HI Hostel: In a converted old warehouse on the waterfront, with private rooms and dormitories. Great location, very friendly staff. This is where we stayed.
- Camping: A campsite operates near the harbour in summer. Basic facilities; the location is beautiful. Worth it for tent or campervan travellers.
Tips and honest warnings before you go
Things we wish we’d known earlier
- Weather closes Route 93 with minimal warning. Even in June, the mountain pass can get fog, ice, or snow. Check road.is before driving. If it’s closed, there’s no other way in or out by road — you wait.
- Most things close by 18:00–19:00. Seyðisfjörður is not a nightlife town. Dinner before 19:00 is standard. Late arrivals will struggle to find a hot meal.
- The Smyril Line ferry carries cars — book in summer by February. Car spots on the Norröna in July and August fill months ahead. Foot-passenger cabins are easier but still worth booking early.
- July is peak season, but LungA crowds are real. The art festival is wonderful but the town’s accommodation gets fully booked. If you don’t care about the festival, June or August are quieter with similar light.
- There is no ATM in town. The nearest cash machine is in Egilsstaðir. Card payments work almost everywhere in Iceland, but don’t count on cash here.
- The camping pool is a social space. Turn up at the pool around 10:00 on a weekday morning and you’ll often find locals having a proper conversation in the hot pot. Jump in.
Seyðisfjörður vs. other east Iceland towns
The Eastfjords are full of small towns that most Ring Road tourists skip. Here’s how Seyðisfjörður compares to the others we’ve seen.
- Vs. Egilsstaðir: Egilsstaðir is bigger, more practical, and has the airport and supermarkets — but it’s not a destination in itself. Use it for supplies; sleep in Seyðisfjörður.
- Vs. Djúpivogur: Another small Eastfjords village, warmer in character but without Seyðisfjörður’s arts infrastructure or the architectural drama. Worth a coffee stop on the Ring Road.
- Vs. Vopnafjörður: Quieter, harder to reach, genuinely off the tourist route. For travellers who want to disappear entirely — but Seyðisfjörður has more to actually do.
- Vs. Höfn: Höfn is the south-east hub, famous for glacier lagoon proximity and langoustine. A different Iceland experience: more tourism infrastructure, less intimacy.
- Vs. Akureyri: Incomparable — Akureyri is north Iceland’s capital, ten times the size, with a completely different feel. If you’re trying to choose between them for a single visit, they belong in different itineraries.
- Bottom line: Seyðisfjörður is unique in Iceland. Nowhere else combines the wooden architecture, arts culture, fjord drama, and genuine community feel in one small package. It’s not about which is “better” — it’s about whether east Iceland is on your itinerary at all. If it is, Seyðisfjörður is the priority stop.
Mistakes we made in Seyðisfjörður
- Treating it as a half-day stop. We initially planned four hours between ferry arrival and driving on. We changed plans after two hours on foot. One night is the minimum; two nights lets you hike and relax.
- Not checking restaurant hours before arriving. We arrived at Við Lónið at 20:30 on our first night expecting dinner. The kitchen had closed. We ate gas-station snacks.
- Skipping the pool on day one. The swimming pool feels like a minor attraction until you’re in the hot pot at 09:30 with a local engineer talking about the winter. Do it on arrival day.
- Under-packing layers for the hike. The Vestdalsfossar trail looks gentle from the village. Once you’re above the treeline, the wind is entirely different from the sheltered waterfront. A windproof layer is not optional.
- Not buying groceries in Egilsstaðir. We assumed the town would have a small shop. There is a kiosk, but it’s tiny and the hours are irregular. Stock up before you drive down.
- Rushing the Rainbow Street shot in bad light. The street faces west; it looks entirely different in the soft evening light of an Icelandic summer versus flat midday overcast. Wait for the light.
Frequently asked questions
Is Seyðisfjörður worth visiting without taking the Smyril Line ferry?
Absolutely. Route 93 from Egilsstaðir is one of the most dramatic short drives in east Iceland, and the town itself is worth the detour for anyone doing the Ring Road. The ferry connection adds a romantic arrival experience, but it’s not required to justify the visit.
How long should I spend in Seyðisfjörður?
One full night is the minimum to feel the town rather than just photograph it. Two nights lets you do the Vestdalsfossar hike, spend a morning at the pool, and have a proper dinner at Við Lónið. Three nights is genuinely pleasant if you’re slow-travelling Iceland’s east coast.
When does the Smyril Line ferry arrive in Seyðisfjörður?
Typically early morning — around 07:00–09:00 local time, depending on the sailing. The exact schedule changes year to year; check Smyril Line’s website for your specific crossing date. The early arrival means you have a full day ahead even on arrival day.
Is Route 93 to Seyðisfjörður safe to drive?
In summer (mid-June through September), Route 93 is paved, clearly marked, and safe for a normal car. The switchbacks are steep on the descent but not technically difficult. In spring or autumn, check road.is before setting off — the pass closes in bad weather. In winter it closes frequently; some visitors end up stranded in town for a day or two, which most describe as unexpectedly wonderful.
What is the Blue Church in Seyðisfjörður?
Bláa kirkjan is a striking blue-painted wooden church dating from the early 20th century. It’s listed as one of Iceland’s best-preserved early 20th-century wooden buildings. In summer it serves as a concert venue for classical and contemporary music. The rainbow-painted path leading to it has become one of Iceland’s most photographed streets.
Is Seyðisfjörður expensive?
By Icelandic standards, it’s comparable to other small towns — which means it’s not cheap by European standards. Budget roughly 4,000–6,000 ISK for a main course at Við Lónið, 1,000–2,000 ISK for a café lunch at Skaftfell, and 1,500–3,000 ISK per person per night for the hostel dorm (private rooms higher). A campsite pitch runs around 1,500 ISK per person. Stock up on groceries in Egilsstaðir to keep food costs manageable.
A final word from Rovaniemi
We live in a small northern town ourselves — Rovaniemi has about 65,000 people, which feels enormous compared to Seyðisfjörður’s 700. But both places share something: an insistence on being exactly what they are, without performing for visitors. Seyðisfjörður doesn’t have a tourist office handing out itineraries. It has a swimming pool, a church that plays Brahms on Wednesdays, and a mountain road that closes when the weather says so.
If you’re arriving on the Smyril Line, give yourself more than a morning before hitting the Ring Road. If you’re driving Iceland’s east coast and see the Route 93 sign, take it. The town will do the rest.
— Joona & Alla, writing from Finnish Lapland
Joona & Alla
A Finnish-Ukrainian couple living in Rovaniemi, Finland. Joona is a marketing professional in Lapland tourism; Alla is an AI Engineer. Together we’ve travelled 25 countries — and Seyðisfjörður is one of the handful we genuinely regretted not staying in longer. This blog is our honest record of those trips.
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