PAYS NORDIQUES · FINLANDE

Finlande,

notre maison sous les aurores boréales

Aurores boréales, soleil de minuit, saunas et Laponie sauvage, racontés par une famille qui considère Rovaniemi comme chez elle.

DÉFILER

MEILLEURE PÉRIODE

Déc — Mars · Juin — Sept

LANGUE

Finnois

DEVISE

EUR

NOS VISITES

Notre port d'attache

Nous vivons ici. Rovaniemi est notre port d’attache depuis des années, et la Finlande est le paysage à l’aune duquel nous mesurons le reste du monde : les longues heures bleues de l’hiver, les étés de soleil de minuit, les saunas au bord de lacs gelés et ce silence de la Laponie qu’on sent dans la poitrine. La plupart de ce qui s’écrit en ligne sur la Finlande se concentre sur Helsinki ou sur une escapade de Noël en Laponie. Nous voulons vous raconter ce que sont les trois cent cinquante autres jours.

La Finlande est immense et paisible. Elle couvre un tiers de million de kilomètres carrés pour seulement 5,6 millions d’habitants : dès que vous quittez les villes du sud, vous vous retrouvez vraiment seul avec la forêt. De la côte de l’archipel près de Turku aux fjells du nord de la Laponie, le pays récompense à parts égales la patience et la curiosité.

Ice Fishing with Snowmobiles in Rovaniemi Lapland Finland Hungrytravelfamily
EN BREF

La Finlande en un coup d'œil

  • Population — 5,6 millions
  • Superficie — 338 455 km²
  • Capitale — Helsinki
  • Lacs — 188 000 (le pays des mille lacs)
  • Point culminant — Halti, 1 324 m
  • Prises — type C/F (norme UE, 230 V)
  • Membre de l'UE — Oui (depuis 1995, euro depuis 2002)
  • Le saviez-vous — la Finlande compte plus de saunas que de voitures (3,3 millions de saunas pour 5,6 millions d'habitants)
La Finlande, dernière grande étendue sauvage d'Europe, où les forêts couvrent 75 % du territoire et où des milliers de lacs parsèment le paysage.

Meilleure période pour y aller

Kuusamo_Koillismaa_Finland_hungrytravelfamily_004

L’hiver (de décembre à mars) est la saison où la Finlande s’éveille pour beaucoup de visiteurs : les aurores boréales dansent sur la Laponie, les stations de ski ouvrent et vous pouvez dormir dans des igloos de verre ou faire un tour en traîneau à rennes ou à huskies. Les températures descendent à -20 °C ou moins dans le nord, mais le paysage enneigé est inoubliable. C’est aussi là que Rovaniemi, la ville officielle du Père Noël, est la plus magique.

L’été (de juin à août) apporte le soleil de minuit. En Laponie, le soleil ne se couche littéralement pas pendant des semaines. Randonnée, baignade dans les lacs, cueillette de baies et longues soirées autour du feu en font la meilleure saison pour les amoureux de la nature. Les moustiques sont féroces en juillet, alors emportez de l’anti-moustiques. Septembre apporte la ruska, les couleurs de l’automne, sans doute la plus belle période en Laponie.

Nos expériences incontournables

Riisitunturi Hungrytravelfamily

Helsinki. La capitale est compacte, se visite à pied et regorge de design, de culture du café et de balades en bateau d’île en île au départ de la place du Marché. Commencez ici pour les musées, la forteresse maritime de Suomenlinna et la scène des saunas. Deux à trois jours suffisent avant de monter vers le nord.

Rovaniemi. La porte d’entrée de la Laponie et notre maison. Le village du Père Noël, les aventures arctiques et les aurores boréales en hiver. En été, le soleil de minuit et les randonnées sur le fjell d’Ounasvaara. Restez-y au moins deux nuits pour goûter vraiment à la vie arctique.

Turku et l’archipel. La plus ancienne ville de Finlande, avec un château médiéval, une scène gastronomique animée au bord de l’Aura et l’accès à la superbe Archipelago Trail : des milliers d’îles que l’on parcourt à vélo et en ferry.

Où séjourner

Pour un premier voyage : partagez votre temps entre Helsinki (2 à 3 nuits) et Rovaniemi/la Laponie (3 à 4 nuits). En hiver, vous profitez ainsi de la culture urbaine et de la nature arctique. En été, ajoutez une nuit à Turku ou dans la région des lacs autour de Mikkeli et de Kuopio. Si vous n’avez qu’un long week-end, Helsinki seule est un merveilleux city break, mais la Finlande se révèle vraiment quand on monte vers le nord.

Se déplacer

Les trains VR relient Helsinki à Turku, Tampere, Oulu et Rovaniemi. Le train de nuit Santa Claus Express entre Helsinki et Rovaniemi est un classique du voyage en Finlande : réservez tôt si vous voulez une cabine. Finnair et Norwegian proposent des vols intérieurs à bon prix si vous réservez à l’avance. Les bus (Onnibus, Matkahuolto) couvrent les trajets que le train ne dessert pas. En Laponie, une voiture de location vous donne la liberté de courir après les aurores boréales et d’explorer les parcs nationaux. Les routes sont bien entretenues même en hiver (les Finlandais savent gérer la neige), mais les pneus d’hiver sont obligatoires de novembre à mars.

Boire et manger

La cuisine finlandaise mise sur des ingrédients purs et une excellence discrète. Goûtez la karjalanpiirakka (tarte carélienne au beurre d’œuf), le kalakukko (poisson cuit dans du pain de seigle), la lohikeitto (soupe de saumon onctueuse, le réconfort ultime) et le poronkäristys (émincé de renne sauté avec purée de pommes de terre et airelles). En été, cueillez des myrtilles et des plaquebières sauvages directement en forêt. La culture du café est forte : c’est le pays qui boit le plus de café par habitant au monde. Un pain à la cannelle (korvapuusti) avec un café est pratiquement un rituel national.

How to See the Midnight Sun in Finland Hungrytravelfamily
BUDGET QUOTIDIEN

Combien coûte une journée en Finlande

La Finlande n’est pas bon marché, mais reste gérable. Helsinki coûte plus cher que le reste du pays, et les activités touristiques en Laponie (safaris en huskies, sorties en motoneige) font vite grimper la note. Manger au restaurant coûte cher, alors nous cuisinons souvent dans des appartements équipés. Les transports en commun sont efficaces et à prix raisonnable. La plus grosse économie : la nature finlandaise est gratuite. Les parcs nationaux, les sentiers et les baignades en pleine nature ne coûtent rien.

Journée à budget moyen, pour deux

  • Hébergement — 50–100 € (Airbnb/cabane) ou 120–180 € (hôtel)
  • Repas — 30–50 € (mélange de cuisine maison et de restaurants)
  • Transport — 15–30 € (trains, bus ou carburant)
  • Activités — 0–80 € (nature gratuite, safaris payants)
  • Extras — 10–20 € (café, souvenirs, entrée au sauna)
Journée à budget moyen, pour deux ≈ 120 – 200 EUR par jour pour deux
QUE METTRE DANS LA VALISE

L'essentiel pour un voyage en Finlande

  • Sous-vêtements thermiques — la laine mérinos est idéale pour les hivers finlandais
  • Doudoune — une vraie, prévue pour -20 °C, pour la Laponie en hiver
  • Bottes imperméables — isolées pour l'hiver, prêtes pour la randonnée en été
  • Anti-moustiques — indispensable pour les lacs et les forêts en juillet
  • Maillot de bain — pour les saunas et les baignades en lac sauvage toute l'année
  • Batterie externe — le froid vide vite les batteries, et vous voudrez prendre des photos
  • Gourde réutilisable — l'eau du robinet finlandaise est pure
  • Masque de nuit — le soleil de minuit complique le sommeil en juin et juillet
DE NOTRE EXPÉRIENCE

Les conseils de Joona et Alla

En Finlande, tout est question de couches. La météo peut varier de 15 degrés en une journée, et il faut être prêt aussi bien à la chaleur douillette de l’intérieur qu’au grand froid dehors. En hiver : sous-vêtements thermiques, une vraie doudoune, des bottes isolées, des chaussettes en laine et des chaufferettes. En été : des couches légères, un imperméable, de l’anti-moustiques (indispensable en juillet) et un maillot pour les lacs. Toute l’année : des chaussures de marche confortables et une gourde réutilisable ; l’eau du robinet finlandaise est parmi les plus propres au monde.

Notre avis

La Finlande récompense le voyage lent. Le pays se révèle dans les moments calmes : un sauna suivi d’un plongeon dans le lac, une balade parmi les couleurs d’automne en Laponie, la première fois que vous voyez l’aurore boréale onduler dans le ciel. Si Helsinki ressemble à une capitale nordique léchée, la Laponie ressemble au bout du monde connu. Nous vivons ici depuis des années et trouvons encore de nouveaux recoins qui nous surprennent. Que vous veniez pour l’hiver arctique ou pour la lumière sans fin de l’été, offrez à la Finlande plus qu’un week-end. Elle vous rendra bien davantage.

LA FINLANDE EN PHOTOS

Notre voyage, image par image

Hungrytravelfamily Auroras Finland
Hungrytravelfamily castle Finland
Hungrytravelfamily Finland
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Mikkeli_Mikkeli_Finland_hungrytravelfamily_001

Questions fréquentes

Helsinki ou Laponie en premier ?

Les deux, et ce sont des expériences totalement différentes. Helsinki est une capitale compacte et élégante, avec un design de classe mondiale, des balades d’île en île et une vraie culture du sauna : idéale pour un city break. La Laponie, c’est la nature arctique à l’état brut : aurores boréales, rennes, safaris en huskies et parcs nationaux. Si vous n’avez le temps que pour l’une, choisissez selon la saison : Helsinki brille en été, tandis que la Laponie est magique en hiver. Mais notre conseil sincère : faites les deux. Le train de nuit Santa Claus Express les relie à merveille.

Faut-il vraiment courir après les aurores boréales ?

Oui : si vous visitez entre décembre et mars, les aurores boréales valent absolument la peine d’être traquées. Rovaniemi se trouve pile sur le cercle polaire, et plus vous montez vers le nord (Inari, Saariselkä, Utsjoki), meilleures sont vos chances. Un ciel dégagé et peu de pollution lumineuse sont la clé. Nous les avons vues des centaines de fois et elles nous coupent encore le souffle. Réservez une excursion aurores ou louez une cabane avec toit en verre pour la meilleure expérience, mais n’oubliez pas que la nature ne joue pas sur commande. Prévoyez au moins trois nuits en Laponie pour augmenter vos chances.

Villes que nous aimons

Helsinki

Capitale du design sur la Baltique

Explorer →

Rovaniemi

Porte du cercle polaire

Explorer →

Turku

La plus ancienne ville, début de l'archipel

Explorer →

Oulu

Ville technologique du nord, sur la côte

Explorer →

CONTINUEZ À EXPLORER

D'autres pays que nous aimons

Faites défiler sur le côté : ce sont des destinations où nous sommes allés et sur lesquelles nous avons écrit.

Suède

Notre voisin plus discret

Explorer →

Norvège

Fjords et grand nord

Explorer →

Islande

Volcans et sable noir

Explorer →

Îles Féroé

Falaises et vent lent

Explorer →

Estonie

Tallinn la médiévale

Explorer →

Portugal

Azulejos et lumière atlantique

Explorer →

Italie

Le pays du slow food

Explorer →

Singapour

Cité-État équatoriale

Explorer →
REJOIGNEZ LE VOYAGE

Recevez nos meilleurs conseils de voyage par e-mail

Des histoires mensuelles depuis Rovaniemi : conseils arctiques, listes de bagages et les endroits où nous revenons sans cesse.

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