PAYS NORDIQUES · FINLANDE

La Finlande,

notre maison sous les aurores boréales

Aurores boréales, soleil de minuit, saunas et Laponie sauvage, racontés par une famille qui vit à Rovaniemi.

FAITES DÉFILER

MEILLEURE PÉRIODE

Déc — Mars · Juin — Sept

LANGUE

Finnois

DEVISE

EUR

NOS VISITES

Notre port d'attache

Nous vivons ici. Rovaniemi est notre port d’attache depuis des années, et la Finlande est le paysage à l’aune duquel nous mesurons le reste du monde : les longues heures bleues de l’hiver, les étés de soleil de minuit, les saunas au bord de lacs gelés et le silence de la Laponie que l’on ressent dans la poitrine. La plupart de ce qui s’écrit en ligne sur la Finlande se concentre sur Helsinki ou sur une brève escapade de Noël en Laponie. Nous voulons vous raconter ce que sont les trois cent cinquante autres jours.

La Finlande est immense et silencieuse. Elle s’étend sur un tiers de million de kilomètres carrés, mais ne compte que 5,6 millions d’habitants : dès qu’on quitte les villes du sud, on se retrouve vraiment seul avec la forêt. De la côte d’archipel près de Turku aux fjells du nord de la Laponie, le pays récompense à parts égales la patience et la curiosité.

Ice Fishing with Snowmobiles in Rovaniemi Lapland Finland Hungrytravelfamily
EN BREF

La Finlande en un coup d'œil

  • Population — 5,6 millions
  • Superficie — 338 455 km²
  • Capitale — Helsinki
  • Lacs — 188 000 (le pays des mille lacs)
  • Point culminant — Halti, 1 324 m
  • Électricité — type C/F (norme UE, 230 V)
  • Membre de l'UE — Oui (depuis 1995, euro depuis 2002)
  • Anecdote — la Finlande compte plus de saunas que de voitures (3,3 millions de saunas pour 5,6 millions d'habitants)
La Finlande, dernière grande étendue sauvage d'Europe, où les forêts couvrent 75 % du territoire et où des milliers de lacs parsèment le paysage.

Meilleure période pour visiter

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Hiver (de décembre à mars) est la saison où la Finlande s’éveille pour beaucoup de visiteurs : les aurores boréales dansent sur la Laponie, les stations de ski ouvrent, et l’on peut dormir dans des igloos de verre ou se promener en traîneau à rennes ou à huskies. Les températures chutent à -20 °C ou moins dans le nord, mais le paysage enneigé est inoubliable. C’est aussi là que Rovaniemi, ville officielle du Père Noël, est la plus magique.

Été (de juin à août) apporte le soleil de minuit. En Laponie, le soleil ne se couche littéralement pas pendant des semaines. Randonnée, baignade dans les lacs, cueillette de baies et longues soirées autour du feu de camp en font la meilleure saison pour les amoureux de la nature. Les moustiques sont redoutables en juillet, pensez donc à emporter un répulsif. Septembre apporte le ruska (les couleurs de l’automne), sans doute la plus belle période en Laponie.

Les meilleures expériences

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Helsinki. La capitale est compacte, se parcourt à pied et regorge de design, de culture du café et de balades d’île en île depuis la place du Marché. Commencez ici par les musées, la forteresse maritime de Suomenlinna et la scène des saunas. Deux à trois jours suffisent avant de filer vers le nord.

Rovaniemi. La porte d’entrée de la Laponie et notre maison. Village du Père Noël, aventures arctiques et aurores boréales en hiver. En été, soleil de minuit et randonnées sur le mont Ounasvaara. Installez-vous ici au moins deux nuits pour vivre vraiment la vie arctique.

Turku et l’archipel. La plus ancienne ville de Finlande, avec un château médiéval, une scène gastronomique animée sur la rivière Aura et l’accès à la superbe route de l’archipel : des milliers d’îles à parcourir à vélo et en ferry.

Où poser vos valises

Pour un premier voyage : partagez votre temps entre Helsinki (2 à 3 nuits) et Rovaniemi/Laponie (3 à 4 nuits). En hiver, vous découvrez ainsi la culture urbaine et la nature arctique. En été, ajoutez une nuit à Turku ou dans la région des lacs autour de Mikkeli et de Kuopio. Si vous n’avez qu’un long week-end, Helsinki seule est un merveilleux séjour urbain, mais la Finlande se révèle vraiment quand on monte vers le nord.

Se déplacer

Les trains VR relient Helsinki à Turku, Tampere, Oulu et Rovaniemi. Le train de nuit Santa Claus Express entre Helsinki et Rovaniemi est un classique du voyage en Finlande : réservez tôt si vous voulez une cabine. Finnair et Norwegian proposent des vols intérieurs à petit prix si l’on réserve à l’avance. Les bus (Onnibus, Matkahuolto) desservent les lignes que le train ne couvre pas. En Laponie, une voiture de location vous donne la liberté de courir après les aurores et d’explorer les parcs nationaux. Les routes sont bien entretenues même en hiver (les Finlandais savent gérer la neige), mais les pneus hiver sont obligatoires de novembre à mars.

Cuisine et boissons

La cuisine finlandaise mise sur des ingrédients purs et une excellence discrète. Goûtez la karjalanpiirakka (tourtes de Carélie au beurre à l’œuf), kalakukko (poisson cuit dans du pain de seigle), lohikeitto (soupe crémeuse au saumon, le comfort food par excellence) et le poronkäristys (émincé de renne avec purée de pommes de terre et airelles). En été, cueillez des myrtilles et des chicoutés sauvages directement en forêt. La culture du café est forte en Finlande : c’est le pays qui boit le plus de café par habitant. Un roulé à la cannelle (korvapuusti) avec un café est presque un rituel national.

How to See the Midnight Sun in Finland Hungrytravelfamily
BUDGET JOURNALIER

Combien coûte une journée en Finlande

La Finlande n’est pas bon marché, mais reste gérable. Helsinki coûte plus cher que le reste du pays, et les activités touristiques en Laponie (safaris en husky, excursions en motoneige) font vite grimper la note. Manger au restaurant coûte cher, alors nous cuisinons souvent dans la cuisine de nos appartements. Les transports publics sont efficaces et d’un prix raisonnable. La plus grosse économie : la nature finlandaise est gratuite. Parcs nationaux, sentiers et baignades en pleine nature ne coûtent rien.

Journée à budget moyen, par couple

  • Hébergement — 50–100 € (Airbnb/cabane) ou 120–180 € (hôtel)
  • Repas — 30–50 € (mélange de cuisine maison et de restaurants)
  • Transport — 15–30 € (trains, bus ou carburant)
  • Activités — 0–80 € (nature gratuite, safaris payants)
  • Extras — 10–20 € (café, souvenirs, entrée au sauna)
Journée à budget moyen, par couple ≈ 120 – 200 EUR par jour pour deux
QUOI METTRE DANS LA VALISE

L'essentiel pour un voyage en Finlande

  • Sous-vêtements thermiques : la laine mérinos est la plus efficace pour les hivers finlandais
  • Doudoune : une vraie, conçue pour -20 °C, pour la Laponie en hiver
  • Bottes imperméables : isolées pour l'hiver, adaptées à la randonnée en été
  • Répulsif anti-moustiques : indispensable pour les sorties en juillet près des lacs et en forêt
  • Maillot de bain : pour les saunas et les baignades sauvages dans les lacs toute l'année
  • Chargeur portable : le froid vide vite les batteries, et vous voudrez prendre des photos
  • Gourde réutilisable : l'eau du robinet finlandaise est d'une pureté parfaite
  • Masque de sommeil : le soleil de minuit complique le sommeil en juin et juillet
DE NOTRE EXPÉRIENCE

Les conseils de Joona et Alla

En Finlande, tout est une question de couches. Le temps peut varier de 15 degrés en une journée, et il faut être prêt à la fois à la chaleur douillette des intérieurs et au grand froid dehors. En hiver : sous-vêtements thermiques, une vraie doudoune, des bottes isolées, des chaussettes en laine et des chauffe-mains. En été : des couches légères, une veste de pluie, un répulsif anti-moustiques (indispensable en juillet) et de quoi se baigner dans les lacs. Toute l’année : des chaussures de marche confortables et une gourde réutilisable ; l’eau du robinet finlandaise compte parmi les plus propres du monde.

Notre avis

La Finlande récompense le voyage lent. Le pays se révèle dans les moments de calme : un sauna suivi d’un plongeon dans le lac, une balade parmi les couleurs d’automne en Laponie, la première fois que l’on voit les aurores boréales onduler dans le ciel. Si Helsinki ressemble à une capitale nordique raffinée, la Laponie donne l’impression d’être au bout du monde connu. Nous vivons ici depuis des années et trouvons encore des recoins qui nous surprennent. Que vous veniez pour l’hiver arctique ou pour la lumière sans fin de l’été, offrez à la Finlande plus qu’un week-end. Elle vous le rendra bien.

LA FINLANDE EN PHOTOS

Notre voyage, image par image

Hungrytravelfamily Auroras Finland
Hungrytravelfamily castle Finland
Hungrytravelfamily Finland
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Mikkeli_Mikkeli_Finland_hungrytravelfamily_001

Questions fréquentes

Helsinki ou la Laponie en premier ?

Les deux, et ce sont des expériences complètement différentes. Helsinki est une capitale compacte et élégante, avec un design de classe mondiale, des balades d’île en île et une culture du sauna : idéale pour un séjour urbain. La Laponie est une nature arctique à l’état brut : aurores boréales, rennes, safaris en husky et parcs nationaux. Si vous n’avez le temps que pour l’une, choisissez selon la saison : Helsinki brille en été, tandis que la Laponie est magique en hiver. Mais notre recommandation sincère : faites les deux. Le train de nuit Santa Claus Express les relie à merveille.

Vaut-il la peine de courir après les aurores boréales ?

Oui : si vous visitez la Finlande entre décembre et mars, les aurores boréales valent absolument la peine d’être chassées. Rovaniemi se trouve pile sur le cercle polaire, et plus on monte vers le nord (Inari, Saariselkä, Utsjoki), meilleures sont les chances. Un ciel dégagé et peu de pollution lumineuse sont essentiels. Nous les avons vues des centaines de fois et elles nous coupent toujours le souffle. Réservez une excursion aux aurores ou louez une cabane au toit de verre pour en profiter au mieux, mais n’oubliez pas que la nature ne se produit pas sur commande. Prévoyez au moins trois nuits en Laponie pour augmenter vos chances.

Villes que nous aimons

Helsinki

Capitale du design sur la Baltique

Explorer →

Rovaniemi

Porte du cercle polaire

Explorer →

Turku

Plus ancienne ville, début de l'archipel

Explorer →

Oulu

Ville technologique du nord, sur la côte

Explorer →

CONTINUEZ À EXPLORER

D'autres pays que nous aimons

Faites défiler sur le côté : ce sont des destinations où nous sommes allés et dont nous avons parlé.

Suède

Notre voisin plus tranquille

Explorer →

Norvège

Fjords et grand nord

Explorer →

Islande

Volcans et sable noir

Explorer →

Îles Féroé

Falaises et vent lent

Explorer →

Estonie

Tallinn médiévale

Explorer →

Portugal

Azulejos et lumière atlantique

Explorer →

Italie

Pays du slow food

Explorer →

Singapour

Cité-État équatoriale

Explorer →
REJOIGNEZ LE VOYAGE

Recevez nos meilleurs conseils de voyage dans votre boîte mail

Des histoires mensuelles depuis Rovaniemi : conseils arctiques, listes de bagages et les lieux où nous revenons toujours.

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