מדינות נורדיות · פינלנד

פינלנד,

הבית שלנו תחת זוהר הצפון

זוהר צפוני, שמש חצות, סאונות ולפלנד פראית – ממשפחה שרובניאמי היא הבית שלה.

גללו למטה

הזמן הטוב ביותר

דצמ׳ — מרץ · יוני — ספט׳

שפה

פינית

מטבע

יורו

הביקורים שלנו

בסיס הבית

אנחנו גרים כאן. רובניאמי היא בסיס הבית שלנו כבר שנים, ופינלנד היא הנוף שמולו אנחנו מודדים את שאר העולם – שעות הכחול הארוכות של החורף, קיצי שמש החצות, סאונות לצד אגמים קפואים, והדממה של לפלנד שמרגישים בחזה. רוב מה שנכתב באינטרנט על פינלנד מתמקד בהלסינקי או בטיול חג מולד קצר ללפלנד. אנחנו רוצים לספר לכם איך מרגישים שלוש מאות וחמישים הימים האחרים.

פינלנד היא ענקית ושקטה. היא משתרעת על שליש מיליון קמ״ר אך מאכלסת רק 5.6 מיליון תושבים, כלומר ברגע שעוזבים את הערים בדרום, אתם באמת לבד עם היער. מחוף הארכיפלג ליד טורקו ועד לגבעות צפון לפלנד, המדינה מתגמלת סבלנות וסקרנות כאחת.

עובדות בקצרה

פינלנד במבט מהיר

אוכלוסייה — 5.6 מיליון
שטח — 338,455 קמ״ר
בירה — הלסינקי
אגמים — 188,000 (ארץ אלף האגמים)
הנקודה הגבוהה ביותר — האלטי, 1,324 מ׳
חשמל — סוג C/F (תקן האיחוד האירופי, 230V)
חברה באיחוד האירופי — כן (מאז 1995, יורו מאז 2002)
עובדה מעניינת — בפינלנד יש יותר סאונות מאשר מכוניות (3.3 מיליון סאונות ל-5.6 מיליון תושבים)

פינלנד – השממה הגדולה האחרונה של אירופה, שבה יערות מכסים 75% מהשטח ואלפי אגמים מנקדים את הנוף.

מתי כדאי לבקר

החורף (דצמבר–מרץ) הוא הזמן שבו פינלנד מתעוררת לחיים עבור מבקרים רבים: זוהר צפוני רוקד מעל לפלנד, אתרי הסקי נפתחים, ואפשר לישון באיגלו זכוכית או לרכוב על מזחלות איילים והאסקי. הטמפרטורות צונחות ל-20- מעלות ומטה בצפון, אבל הנוף המושלג בלתי נשכח. זה גם הזמן שבו רובניאמי – עיר הולדתו הרשמית של סנטה קלאוס – הכי קסומה.

הקיץ (יוני–אוגוסט) מביא איתו את שמש החצות. בלפלנד השמש פשוט לא שוקעת במשך שבועות. טיולים רגליים, שחייה באגמים, קטיף פירות יער וערבים ארוכים ליד מדורה הופכים אותו לעונה הטובה ביותר לאוהבי טבע. היתושים עזים ביולי, אז קחו משחה דוחה יתושים. בספטמבר מגיעה הרוסקה – צבעי הסתיו – שהיא ככל הנראה התקופה היפה ביותר בלפלנד.

החוויות המובילות

הלסינקי. הבירה קומפקטית, נוחה להליכה ומלאה בעיצוב, תרבות קפה והפלגות בין איים מכיכר השוק. מתחילים כאן במוזיאונים, במצודת הים סואומנלינה ובסצנת הסאונה. יומיים-שלושה מספיקים לפני שממשיכים צפונה.

רובניאמי. שער הכניסה ללפלנד והבית שלנו. כפר סנטה קלאוס, הרפתקאות ארקטיות וזוהר צפוני בחורף. בקיץ – שמש חצות וטיולי הליכה בגבעת אונאסווארה. כדאי להתמקם כאן לפחות שני לילות כדי לחוות את החיים הארקטיים כראוי.

טורקו והארכיפלג. העיר העתיקה ביותר בפינלנד, עם טירה מימי הביניים, סצנת אוכל תוססת לאורך נהר אאורה וגישה לשביל הארכיפלג המרהיב – אלפי איים שאפשר לחצות באופניים ובמעבורות.

איפה כדאי להתמקם

לטיול ראשון: חלקו את הזמן בין הלסינקי (2–3 לילות) לרובניאמי/לפלנד (3–4 לילות). בחורף כך תוכלו לחוות גם תרבות עירונית וגם שממה ארקטית. בקיץ הוסיפו לילה בטורקו או באזור האגמים סביב מיקאלי וקואופיו. אם יש לכם רק סוף שבוע ארוך, הלסינקי לבדה היא חופשה עירונית נפלאה – אבל פינלנד באמת נחשפת רק כשנוסעים צפונה.

איך מסתובבים

רכבות VR מחברות את הלסינקי עם טורקו, טמפרה, אולו ורובניאמי. רכבת הלילה Santa Claus Express מהלסינקי לרובניאמי היא קלאסיקה של הטיול הפינית – הזמינו קרון שינה מוקדם. Finnair ו-Norwegian מפעילות טיסות פנים בזול אם מזמינים מראש. אוטובוסים (Onnibus, Matkahuolto) מכסים קווים שהרכבות לא מגיעות אליהם. בלפלנד, רכב שכור נותן לכם חופש לרדוף אחר זוהר צפוני ולחקור פארקים לאומיים. הכבישים מתוחזקים היטב גם בחורף – הפינים יודעים להתמודד עם שלג – אבל צמיגי חורף הם חובה מנובמבר עד מרץ.

אוכל ושתייה

האוכל הפיני עוסק במרכיבים נקיים ובמצוינות שקטה. נסו karjalanpiirakka (פשטידות קרליות עם חמאת ביצה), kalakukko (דג אפוי בתוך לחם שפונים), lohikeitto (מרק סלמון קרמי – אוכל הנחמה האולטימטיבי) ו-poronkäristys (איל מוקפץ עם פירה ואוכמניות אדומות). בקיץ אפשר לקטוף אוכמניות בר ופטל ענן ישירות מהיער. תרבות הקפה הפינית חזקה – המדינה שותה יותר קפה לנפש מכל מקום אחר. לביבת קינמון (korvapuusti) עם קפה היא כמעט טקס לאומי.

תקציב יומי

כמה עולה יום בפינלנד

פינלנד אינה זולה, אבל היא בהחלט ניתנת לניהול. הלסינקי יקרה יותר משאר המדינה, ופעילויות התיירות בלפלנד (ספארי האסקי, סיורי אופנועי שלג) מצטברות מהר. לאכול בחוץ יקר, ולכן אנחנו מבשלים לא פעם במטבחי דירות. התחבורה הציבורית יעילה ובמחיר סביר. החיסכון הגדול ביותר: הטבע של פינלנד חינמי. פארקים לאומיים, שבילים ושחייה בטבע לא עולים דבר.

יום בתקציב בינוני, לזוג

יום בתקציב בינוני, לזוג ≈ 120 – 200 יורו ליום לשניים

מה לארוז

הכרחי לטיול בפינלנד

שכבות תרמיות בסיסיות — צמר מרינו הכי מתאים לחורף הפיני
מעיל פוך — מעיל טוב, מדורג ל-20- מעלות, לביקורי חורף בלפלנד
מגפיים עמידים למים — מבודדים לחורף ומתאימים לטיולי הליכה בקיץ
משחה דוחה יתושים — חיונית לטיולי אגמים ויער ביולי
בגד ים — לסאונות ולשחייה באגמים לאורך כל השנה
מטען נייד — הקור מרוקן סוללות מהר, ואתם תרצו לצלם
בקבוק מים רב-פעמי — מי הברז בפינלנד זכים
מסיכת עיניים — שמש החצות מקשה על השינה ביוני וביולי

מהניסיון שלנו

הטיפים של יונה ואלה

שכבות זה הכול בפינלנד. מזג האוויר יכול להשתנות ב-15 מעלות ביום אחד, וצריך להיות מוכנים גם לחום נעים בפנים וגם לקור רציני בחוץ. בחורף: שכבות תרמיות, מעיל פוך טוב, מגפיים מבודדים, גרביים מצמר ומחממי ידיים. בקיץ: שכבות קלות, מעיל גשם, משחה דוחה יתושים (חיונית ביולי) ובגדי שחייה לאגמים. כל השנה: נעלי הליכה נוחות ובקבוק מים רב-פעמי – מי הברז בפינלנד הם בין הנקיים בעולם.

הדעה שלנו

פינלנד מתגמלת טיול איטי. המדינה נחשפת ברגעים השקטים – סאונה ואחריה צלילה לאגם, הליכה בין צבעי הסתיו בלפלנד, הפעם הראשונה שבה רואים את הזוהר הצפוני מתנחשל על פני השמיים. אם הלסינקי מרגישה כמו בירה נורדית מצוחצחת, לפלנד מרגישה כמו קצה העולם המוכר. אנחנו גרים כאן שנים ועדיין מוצאים פינות חדשות שמפתיעות אותנו. בין שתבואו בשביל החורף הארקטי ובין בשביל אור הקיץ האינסופי, תנו לפינלנד יותר מסוף שבוע. היא תחזיר לכם הרבה יותר.

פינלנד בתמונות

הטיול שלנו, תמונה אחר תמונה

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שאלות נפוצות

קודם הלסינקי או לפלנד?

שתיהן, והן חוויות שונות לגמרי. הלסינקי היא בירה קומפקטית ומסוגננת עם עיצוב ברמה עולמית, הפלגות בין איים ותרבות סאונה – מושלמת לחופשה עירונית. לפלנד היא שממה ארקטית גולמית: זוהר צפוני, איילים, ספארי האסקי ופארקים לאומיים. אם יש לכם זמן רק לאחת, בחרו לפי העונה – הלסינקי זורחת בקיץ ולפלנד קסומה בחורף. אבל ההמלצה הכנה שלנו: עשו את שתיהן. רכבת הלילה Santa Claus Express מחברת ביניהן בצורה נהדרת.

האם זוהר הצפון שווה את הרדיפה?

כן – אם אתם מבקרים בין דצמבר למרץ, זוהר הצפון שווה בהחלט את הרדיפה. רובניאמי יושבת ממש על החוג הארקטי, וככל שנוסעים צפונה יותר (אינארי, סארישלקה, אוטסיוקי), הסיכויים משתפרים. שמיים בהירים וזיהום אור נמוך הם המפתח. ראינו אותו מאות פעמים והוא עדיין עוצר אותנו במקום. הזמינו סיור זוהר או שכרו בקתה עם גג זכוכית לחוויה הטובה ביותר – אבל זכרו, הטבע לא מופיע לפי לוח זמנים. תנו לעצמכם לפחות שלושה לילות בלפלנד כדי לשפר את הסיכויים.

ערים שאנחנו אוהבים

הלסינקי

בירת העיצוב על הבלטי

רובניאמי

שער החוג הארקטי

טורקו

העיר העתיקה ביותר, תחילת הארכיפלג

אולו

עיר הטכנולוגיה הצפונית על החוף

ממשיכים לחקור

עוד מדינות שאנחנו אוהבים

החליקו הצידה – אלה יעדים שהיינו בהם וכתבנו עליהם.

שוודיה

השכנה השקטה שלנו

נורווגיה

פיורדים והצפון הרחוק

איסלנד

הרי געש וחול שחור

איי פארו

צוקים ורוח איטית

אסטוניה

טאלין של ימי הביניים

פורטוגל

אריחים ואור אטלנטי

איטליה

ארץ האוכל האיטי

סינגפור

עיר-מדינה ליד קו המשווה

הצטרפו למסע

קבלו את טיפי הטיולים הטובים שלנו לתיבת הדואר

סיפורים חודשיים מרובניאמי – טיפים ארקטיים, רשימות אריזה והמקומות שאנחנו חוזרים אליהם שוב ושוב.